AQUARIUM CARE

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Find care and acclimation information for your freshwater fish, shrimp and snails, with practical guidance from Micro Aquatic Shop.

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Inside Micro Aquatic Shop, Wetherill Park

BEFORE YOUR NEW ARRIVALS

Prepare, quarantine & settle in

Travel can be stressful for livestock. Have a suitable aquarium ready, and give new arrivals time to adjust.

Check your aquarium before ordering

  • Make sure the tank has enough space and is fully cycled.
  • Check that your water parameters, temperature and habitat suit the species you want to keep.
  • Consider the size, temperament and needs of existing tank mates before adding new fish or shrimp.
  • Add livestock gradually. A sudden increase can unbalance water parameters and affect water quality.

Use the species guides below for tank setup, feeding and water requirements. If you are unsure about your setup, ask us before you order.

Quarantine new fish for 7–14 days

We strongly recommend a quarantine tank before introducing new fish to an established aquarium. Delivery stress can make fish more susceptible to illness, even when they were healthy before travel.

  1. Set up a separate tank with filtration and a heater where the species requires it.
  2. Fully cycle the tank, test the water and set a suitable temperature before adding fish. Temperature needs vary by species.
  3. Monitor the new fish for 7–14 days.
  4. Once they are healthy and settled, acclimate them again before transferring them to the main aquarium.

Take care on arrival

Turn off aquarium lights and use the appropriate float-and-mix or drip-acclimation method. Read the full acclimation steps and timings before opening your transport bags.

  • Do not feed new fish for the first 24 hours. Feed existing fish before releasing the new arrivals.
  • Livestock can appear pale or less active after travel. Fish and shrimp may take 3–7 days to adapt and regain their colour.
  • Keep an eye on them as they settle, and contact us promptly if something concerns you.

Record your unboxing. For dead, damaged, missing or incorrect items, follow the evidence requirements and reporting window in our Live Arrival Guarantee.

Find your care guide

Choose a topic to read the full guide.

AngelfishFish care

Care guide and acclimation instructions for Angelfish

(Pterophyllum scalare), one of the most popular and striking freshwater aquarium fish. Known for their elegant, triangular fins and graceful swimming, angelfish are fairly hardy but have specific water requirements and tank-mates preferences.

Angelfish Care Guide

1. Water Parameters
  • Temperature: 24–28°C (75–82°F)
  • pH: 6.5–7.5 (neutral to slightly acidic)
  • GH (General Hardness): 4–12 dGH
  • KH (Carbonate Hardness): 3–8 dKH
  • TDS (Total Dissolved Solids): 150–250 ppm (moderate hardness)
Angelfish prefer stable water parameters, so sudden fluctuations in temperature or pH should be avoided.
2.Tank Setup
  • Tank Size: Minimum 20 gallons for a pair or a small group of angelfish. Larger tanks are recommended for more than one pair or for keeping them with other large, peaceful fish.
  • Filtration: A good filtration system is essential to maintain water quality. Angelfish do not like strong currents, so make sure the filter isn’t too powerful.
  • Substrate: Fine gravel or soft sand is ideal for angelfish, but they’ll also do fine with other inert substrates. Avoid rough substrates that could injure their delicate fins.
  • Plants and Decor: Angelfish enjoy a planted tank, especially with tall plants and floating plants that provide some hiding spots and vertical swimming space.
Recommended plants: Amazon sword, java fern, anubias, and floating plants like water lettuce.
They will also appreciate driftwood, rocks, and caves for additional cover.
Lighting: Moderate lighting, as angelfish prefer to swim in slightly shaded areas. Floating plants can provide some cover and help reduce light intensity.
 Diet
 Omnivorous: Angelfish will eat a variety of foods, both plant-based and protein-based.
   Core Diet: High-quality pellets or flakes (sinking ones are preferred)
   Supplemental Foods: Live or frozen foods such as brine shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms, and blackworms
   Vegetables: Blanched spinach, zucchini, and peas (occasional feeding)
 Feed 2–3 times per day, offering small amounts to ensure all the food is eaten. Remove uneaten food to avoid water contamination.
 Behavior and Tank Mates
 Temperament: Angelfish are generally peaceful but can be territorial, especially during breeding. They may show aggression toward smaller fish or fish that invade their space.
   Aggression: This usually manifests as chasing or nipping at smaller fish or tank mates.
   Breeding Behavior: Males may become territorial and defend their spawning sites.
 Tank Mates: Best kept with other peaceful, similarly-sized fish. Some good tankmates include:
   Peaceful community fish: Tetras (e.g., cardinal, neon), Corydoras catfish, and peaceful bottom dwellers.
   Avoid: Small fish like guppies, shrimp, or slow-moving fish that may become targets for aggression or harassment.
 Social Structure: Angelfish are best kept in pairs or small groups, but if keeping more than one pair, ensure the tank is large enough to prevent conflicts between males.
 Water Changes
 Regular weekly water changes (20–30%) are important for keeping water quality high. Stable water conditions are key to keeping angelfish healthy.
 Monitor ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates regularly to ensure that the tank is properly cycled and free from toxins.
Acclimation Instructions for Angelfish
Angelfish are relatively hardy, but acclimating them carefully helps reduce stress and ensures a smooth transition to their new environment.
 1. Temperature Acclimation
 Float the bag: Place the sealed bag with the angelfish in the tank for about 20–30 minutes to allow the temperature to equalize. This prevents temperature shock.
 2. Drip Acclimation Method (Recommended for Sensitive Species)
1. Prepare the container: Gently pour the angelfish and the water from the bag into a clean container or bucket.
2. Setup a drip line: Use airline tubing and set up a siphon with the tank water to slowly drip into the container with the angelfish. A slow drip of around 2–4 drops per second is ideal.
3. Gradual adjustment: Allow the acclimation process to take 1–2 hours, which will allow the angelfish to slowly adjust to the water parameters (pH, hardness, temperature, etc.) in your tank.
4. Watch for signs of stress: During the process, watch for any signs of stress like rapid breathing or erratic movement. If these signs appear, slow the drip rate down.
 3. Transfer the Angelfish
 After the acclimation period, gently net the angelfish and transfer it to the tank.
 Do not pour the water from the bag into your tank, as it may contain contaminants or parasites.
 4. Post-Transfer:
 Keep the lights off for the first few hours after introducing the angelfish to reduce stress.
 Monitor the fish closely: Angelfish may hide for a day or two as they adjust. Ensure they’re not being harassed by other tankmates.
 Feeding: After a day or two, offer them food. They may take a little time to acclimate to feeding.
 Additional Tips:
 Tank Size: Angelfish can grow quite large (up to 6 inches long), so providing plenty of swimming space is essential.
 Breeding: If you have a male and female pair, they will often form a strong bond and may breed in a tank with suitable conditions. Ensure you have a well-established tank with stable parameters to support successful breeding.
 Compatibility: Keep an eye on tankmates during the first few days. Angelfish can be territorial, especially when they begin to pair up or start breeding.
 Water Quality: Like most tropical fish, angelfish are sensitive to poor water quality. Regular water testing and maintenance are crucial for keeping them healthy.
For any further questions or advice, feel free to contact us.
Email : cs@microaquaticshop.com.au
Phone : (02) 83203037
Address : Unit 15 2-8 Daniel St Wetherill Park 2164 open 9=5pm everyday
Mystery snailsSnails care
Aquarium Mystery Snail Care Guide
Scientific Name: Pomacea bridgesii
Common Name: Mystery Snail
How to Acclimate a Mystery Snail:
Method: Drip acclimate the snail slowly over a 30-minute period.
Temperature 26-28 degree for them to be active. The snail will not move if they are in cold water.
 Steps:
  1. Place the snail in a clean container with some of the water it arrived in.
  2. Use airline tubing to slowly drip tank water into the container at a rate of 1-2 drops per second.
  3. Continue this process for about 30 minutes to allow the snail to gradually adjust to the new water conditions.
  4. Once the acclimation is complete, gently release the snail into the tank.
This slow acclimation helps reduce the risk of shock and stress for your snail.
Tank Setup:
 Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
 Water Temperature: 68°F - 82°F (20°C - 28°C)
 pH: 7.0 - 8.0
 Water Hardness: Soft to hard water
 Filtration: Gentle filtration (Avoid strong currents)
 Substrate: Fine gravel or sand
 Lighting: Moderate to low lighting
Feeding:
 Diet: Herbivorous; feed a variety of algae wafers, vegetables (zucchini, spinach), and calcium-rich foods (blanched cuttlefish bone, crushed eggshells).
 Feeding Frequency: 2-3 times per week, supplementing with algae naturally in the tank.
Tank Maintenance:
 Water Changes: 20-25% weekly to maintain water quality.
 Water Parameters: Regularly test for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates to ensure a healthy environment.
Behavior & Social:
 Temperament: Peaceful and non-aggressive.
 Tankmates: Best with other peaceful species (avoid aggressive fish that might harass the snails).
 Activity: Active during the day, moving slowly across the tank. Mystery snails may leave the water surface and travel across tank glass when exploring.
Breeding:
 Eggs: Female snails lay bright pink eggs above the waterline. Remove eggs promptly to prevent overpopulation.
 Sexual Dimorphism: Males are smaller and less colorful than females.
Important Notes:
 Calcium Requirement: Ensure adequate calcium in the diet for healthy shell growth.
 Avoid Copper: Mystery snails are sensitive to copper-based medications.
Common Issues:
 Snail Deaths: Often caused by poor water quality, low calcium, or incompatible tankmates.
 Shell Deformities: Can be a sign of calcium deficiency or poor water conditions.
For any further questions or advice, feel free to contact us.
Email : cs@microaquaticshop.com.au
Phone : (02) 83203037
Address : Unit 15 2-8 Daniel St Wetherill Park 2164 open 9=5pm everyday
Bristlenose & L-number plecosFish care
Care guide and acclimation instructions for Bristlenose Plecos and Lnumber Plecos 
Bristlenose such as common bristlenose,albino bristlenose (longfin and short fin)
Lnumber Pleco such as L144 blue eyes, L397 tiger, L001 gold spotted 
 These are popular algaeeating fish and are often sought for their unique appearances and peaceful temperaments.
Bristlenose Pleco Care Guide
 Water Parameters
 Temperature: 22–28°C (72–82°F)
 pH: 6.5–7.5 (slightly acidic to neutral)
 GH (General Hardness): 4–10 dGH
 KH (Carbonate Hardness): 2–6 dKH
 TDS: 150–250 ppm (generally moderate hardness)
 Tank Setup
 Tank Size: Minimum 20 gallons for a single Bristlenose; larger tanks for more than one
 Filtration: Strong, yet gentle filtration; sponge filters or HOB filters with good water movement (but not too strong a current)
 Substrate: Fine gravel or sand
 Plants and Decor: Bristlenose plecos like plenty of hiding spots, so caves, driftwood, and plants are essential. Driftwood is also helpful in their diet, as they may rasp on it to consume biofilm.
 Lighting: Low to moderate; they are nocturnal and like dimmer conditions during the day.
 Diet
 Omnivorous (algae eaters, but will also consume plant matter and protein)
 Core diet: Algae wafers, sinking pellets, blanched vegetables (e.g., zucchini, cucumber, sweet potato, spinach)
 Supplemental foods: Wood (they eat biofilm from driftwood), frozen foods (e.g., bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia) for variety
 Feed 2–3 times a week with a variety of foods and always remove uneaten food to avoid polluting the tank.
 Behavior and Tank Mates
 Temperament: Peaceful, nocturnal scavengers
 Tank mates: Peaceful fish (such as tetras, peaceful cichlids, small catfish), but avoid very large or aggressive fish that may bully the pleco.
 Social Behavior: Solitary or in pairs (avoid keeping more than two males together unless you have a large tank to reduce territorial aggression).
 Water Changes
 Regular weekly water changes (20–30%) are necessary for good water quality.
 Keep the water parameters stable, and avoid significant shifts in pH, temperature, or hardness.
Lnumber Pleco Care Guide
Note: "Lnumbers" refer to the identification system used for various species of plecos in the Hypancistrus, Panaque, Pterygoplichthys, and other genera. Each species has different care requirements, but general care guidelines are similar.
 Water Parameters
 Temperature: 24–30°C (75–86°F), depending on species
 pH: 6.5–7.5 (neutral to slightly acidic)
 GH (General Hardness): 4–12 dGH
 KH (Carbonate Hardness): 2–6 dKH
 TDS: 150–300 ppm (varies by species)
 Tank Setup
 Tank Size: Varies by species; typically 30 gallons or larger for Lnumber plecos
 Filtration: Strong, efficient filtration (HOB, canister filter, or sponge filter), with moderate water flow
 Substrate: Fine sand or smooth gravel to avoid damage to the pleco's sensitive barbels
 Plants and Decor: Lots of hiding spots like caves, driftwood, and rocks. Some species of Lnumber plecos (e.g., Hypancistrus species) need driftwood for grazing on biofilm.
 Lighting: Moderate; dim lighting for nocturnal species.
 Diet
 Omnivorous; primarily algae eaters but also require protein.
 Core diet: Algae wafers, sinking pellets, blanched vegetables, and wood (if they are woodeating types like Panaque species).
 Supplemental foods: Frozen foods such as bloodworms, brine shrimp, or daphnia.
 Feed 2–3 times a week, ensuring that the diet is wellrounded to meet their nutritional needs.
 Behavior and Tank Mates
 Temperament: Peaceful, nocturnal, and territorial.
 Tank mates: Avoid keeping more than one Lnumber pleco of the same species unless the tank is large enough to offer territory. Peaceful fish like small tetras, Corydoras, or other peaceful species are best.
 Territoriality: Lnumber plecos can be territorial, so caves and hiding spots are essential. Ensure they have sufficient space to establish territories.
 Water Changes
 Perform regular weekly water changes (20–30%) to maintain good water quality.
 Make sure parameters are stable and avoid rapid shifts in water chemistry.
Acclimation Instructions for Bristlenose and Lnumber Plecos
Plecos, especially Lnumber plecos, can be sensitive to changes in water parameters. A slow and careful acclimation process is important to avoid stressing the fish.
 1. Temperature Acclimation:
 Float the bag with the pleco in the tank for 15–20 minutes to match the water temperature.
 2. Drip Acclimation Method (Recommended for Lnumber Plecos and Sensitive Species):
1. Gently pour the pleco and water from the bag into a clean container.
2. Set up a drip acclimation system using airline tubing to siphon water from the tank into the container with the pleco.
3. Adjust the drip rate to 2–4 drops per second.
4. Allow the acclimation to take 1–2 hours. This gradual process helps the pleco adjust to the new water parameters, such as pH, hardness, and temperature.
 3. Transfer the Pleco:
 Once the acclimation is complete, gently net the pleco and place it into the tank. Do not pour the water from the acclimation container into your aquarium.
 4. PostTransfer:
 Keep the lights off for a few hours after transferring the pleco to reduce stress.
 Monitor the pleco closely for signs of stress, such as hiding for an extended period or refusal to eat.
For any further questions or advice, feel free to contact us.
Email : cs@microaquaticshop.com.au
Phone : (02) 83203037
Address : Unit 15 2-8 Daniel St Wetherill Park 2164 open 9=5pm everyday
Native shrimpShrimp care
Care guide and acclimation instruction for Australian native freshwater shrimp
(such as Amano Shrimp, North Queensland shrimp, Ghost Shrimp, Red nose Shrimp. These species are hardy and well-suited to freshwater aquariums with stable, clean conditions.)
Australian Native Shrimp Care Guide
 Water Parameters
 Temperature: 20–26°C (68–79°F)
 pH: 6.5–7.5 (slightly acidic to neutral)
 GH (General Hardness): 4–12 dGH
 KH (Carbonate Hardness): 2–6 dKH
 TDS: 100–250 ppm (varies depending on species and local origin)
Note: Many wild-caught Australian shrimp come from cooler, softwater streams. If wild-sourced, try to replicate their local habitat more precisely.
 Tank Setup
 Tank Size: Minimum 10–20 litres for small colonies (larger preferred for stability)
 Filtration: Sponge filter or gentle HOB filter with intake guard
 Substrate: Inert sand/gravel or planted tank substrate
 Plants and Decor: Provide mosses, driftwood, rocks, and leaf litter for biofilm and cover
 Lighting: Low to moderate
 Lid: Required—shrimp can climb out if conditions are not ideal
 Diet
 Omnivorous; diet should include:
   Shrimp-specific pellets
   Algae wafers
   Blanched vegetables (e.g., spinach, zucchini)
   Naturally occurring biofilm (encouraged by driftwood, moss, leaves)
 Feed small amounts 2–3 times per week. Remove uneaten food to avoid fouling the water.
 Behaviour and Tank Mates
 Peaceful, social shrimp
 Best kept in a species-only tank or with very peaceful nano fish (e.g., Pseudomugil species)
 Snails (like nerites) are excellent tankmates
 Avoid predatory or large fish
 Water Changes
 Perform small weekly water changes (10–20%) with dechlorinated or conditioned water
 Match temperature and parameters closely to avoid stress
Acclimation Instructions
Australian native shrimp are sensitive to changes in water chemistry. Proper acclimation is essential, especially for wild-caught individuals.
 Drip Acclimation Method
1. Temperature Match (Optional but Recommended)
    Float the sealed bag in the tank for 15–20 minutes to equalize temperature
2. Transfer to Acclimation Container
    Gently pour the shrimp and their bag water into a clean container (like a bucket or tub)
3. Set Up Drip Line
    Use airline tubing to siphon tank water into the container
    Control the flow to around 2–4 drops per second
4. Drip Acclimate for 1.5–2 Hours
    Aim to gradually triple the volume of water in the container
    Ensure no rapid changes in temperature or pH
5. Net and Transfer
    Use a soft net to move the shrimp into the tank
    Do not pour store water into the tank
6. Turn Lights Off
    Keep tank lights off for several hours to reduce stress
For any further questions or advice, feel free to contact us.
Email : cs@microaquaticshop.com.au
Phone : (02) 83203037
Address : Unit 15 2-8 Daniel St Wetherill Park 2164 open 9=5pm everyday
Caridina shrimpShrimp care
Caridina Shrimp Care Guide
 (such as Caridina cantonensis species like Crystal Red, Crystal Black, Taiwan Bee, etc.) along with acclimation instructions—tailored to their more sensitive needs compared to Neocaridina.
Caridina Shrimp Care Guide
 Water Parameters (more sensitive than Neocaridina)
 Temperature: 68–74°F (20–23°C)
 pH: 5.8–6.8 (slightly acidic)
 GH (General Hardness): 4–6 dGH
 KH (Carbonate Hardness): 0–2 dKH (very low!)
 TDS: 100–150 ppm
 Water Type: RO (reverse osmosis) water remineralized with shrimp-specific minerals (e.g., SaltyShrimp GH+)
 Stability is Critical:
 Caridina shrimp are very sensitive to ammonia, nitrite, and even nitrates (>10 ppm can be harmful)
 Keep water changes small (10–15% weekly) and consistent
 A mature, cycled tank is a must — wait at least 4–6 weeks after cycling before adding shrimp
 Tank Setup
 Tank Size: Minimum 10 gallons (for stability)
 Filtration: Sponge filter or gentle HOB; must be shrimp-safe
 Substrate: Active buffering substrate (e.g., ADA Amazonia, Brightwell, SL-Aqua) to help lower and stabilize pH
 Decor/Plants: Mosses, cholla wood, catappa leaves – promote biofilm and hiding spots
 Lighting: Low to moderate – moss thrives, and shrimp feel secure
 Diet
 High-quality shrimp-specific food
 Blanched vegetables (spinach, kale, zucchini – sparingly)
 Biofilm and algae are critical natural food sources
 Feed 2–3x per week in small amounts (uneaten food can pollute water)
 Tank Mates
 Best Kept in Species-Only Tanks
 Possible safe tank mates: snails (e.g., nerites), peaceful nano fish (only if breeding isn’t a priority)
How to Acclimate Caridina Shrimp
Caridina are more sensitive than Neocaridina – acclimation must be slow and careful.
Drip Acclimation Method (Highly Recommended)
1. Float Bag for 20–30 Minutes:
    Let shrimp bag sit in the tank to match temperature
2. Transfer to Container:
    Gently pour shrimp and their water into a clean bucket or container
3. Set Up a Drip Line:
    Use airline tubing to siphon water from your tank into the container
    Use a valve or tight knot to control flow (2–4 drops per second)
4. Drip Over 2–3 Hours:
    Slowly mix tank water with their water, about doubling volume every hour
    Aim for at least a 3x volume increase in total
5. Net & Transfer Shrimp:
    Gently net them and place them into the tank (never pour acclimation water in!)
6. Lights Off:
    Keep lights off for several hours to reduce stress
For any further questions or advice, feel free to contact us.
Email : cs@microaquaticshop.com.au
Phone : (02) 83203037
Address : Unit 15 2-8 Daniel St Wetherill Park 2164 open 9=5pm everyday
GouramiFish care
Care guide and acclimation instructions for Gouramis 
Gouramis are peaceful and popular freshwater fish with a variety of species, including the Dwarf Gourami, Honey Gourami, and Blue Gourami, each with slightly different requirements, but the general care principles are quite similar.
Gourami Care Guide
 Water Parameters
 Temperature: 24–28°C (75–82°F)
 pH: 6.0–7.5 (slightly acidic to neutral)
 GH (General Hardness): 4–12 dGH
 KH (Carbonate Hardness): 3–8 dKH
 TDS (Total Dissolved Solids): 150–250 ppm
 Tank Setup
 Tank Size: Minimum 20 gallons for a pair or small group of gouramis. Larger tanks are better for more than one species or for breeding.
 Filtration: Medium filtration with moderate water movement (gentle enough for long-finned gouramis). Sponge filters work great if you’re keeping delicate species or smaller fish.
 Substrate: Fine gravel or soft sand is ideal, but gouramis do fine with most substrates.
 Plants and Decor: Gouramis love planted tanks with floating plants and dense vegetation, as it provides cover and mimic their natural habitat. Driftwood, rocks, and caves are also beneficial for hiding.
 Lighting: Moderate to low lighting works best, especially for species that prefer dimmer environments like the Honey Gourami.
 Diet
 Omnivorous: Gouramis will eat a variety of foods.
   Core Diet: High-quality pellets or flakes (preferably sinking)
   Supplemental Foods: Frozen or live foods such as brine shrimp, daphnia, and bloodworms (occasionally)
   Vegetables: Blanched spinach, zucchini, or peas for variety
   Algae: Some species, like the Dwarf Gourami, will also nibble on biofilm or algae in the tank.
Feed 2–3 times per day in small portions, and always remove any uneaten food to avoid water pollution.
 Behavior and Tank Mates
 Temperament: Gouramis are generally peaceful but can be territorial, especially during breeding. The males may show aggression toward each other, so it’s recommended to keep a ratio of one male per several females.
 Tank Mates: Gouramis do well with other peaceful fish such as:
   Tetras (e.g., neon, cardinal)
   Corydoras catfish
   Small peaceful barbs (like cherry barbs)
   Shrimp (like cherry shrimp)
 Avoid keeping multiple males of the same species together, as they can become aggressive.
 Gouramis tend to be relatively shy, so it’s best to house them with peaceful fish that won’t harass them.
 Water Changes
 Perform regular weekly water changes (20–30%) to maintain water quality and prevent the buildup of harmful toxins like ammonia and nitrates.
 Gouramis appreciate clean water, but don’t stress over extremely stringent water parameters unless you have a species that requires specific conditions.
Acclimation Instructions for Gourami Fish
Gouramis are fairly hardy but are still sensitive to sudden changes in water conditions. Acclimation should be done carefully to minimize stress.
 1. Temperature Acclimation
Float the bag with the gourami in the tank for 15–20 minutes to match the water temperature. This helps prevent temperature shock.
 2. Drip Acclimation Method (Best for Sensitive Gourami Species)
 Prepare a clean container (bucket or small tub) and gently pour the water from the bag into it.
 Set up a drip line: Use airline tubing to siphon water from the tank into the container. Adjust the drip rate to 2–4 drops per second.
 Acclimate slowly: Over the course of 1–2 hours, allow the water volume in the container to increase slowly, mixing the tank water with the bag water.
 This slow process helps the gourami adjust to the new tank water parameters (like pH, hardness, and temperature) gradually.
 3. Transfer the Gourami
 After the acclimation is complete, gently net the gourami and place it into the tank.
 Do not pour the acclimation water into the tank, as it may contain harmful substances or parasites.
 4. Lights Off for a Few Hours
 Keep the tank lights off for the first few hours to reduce stress and help the gourami acclimate to its new environment without the added stress of bright lighting.
 Gouramis are somewhat shy and may hide for a while during the first day in their new tank.
 5. Monitor After Acclimation
 After releasing the gourami into the tank, observe it carefully for signs of stress such as rapid breathing, hiding, or swimming erratically.
 Make sure it’s eating within the first couple of days (this is a good sign that it’s adapting well).
 Additional Tips:
 Gouramis are labyrinth fish, meaning they have a special organ that allows them to breathe air from the surface, so it’s important to have adequate surface area for them to access air. Ensure your tank has space at the surface for them to breathe comfortably.
 Avoid keeping gouramis with overly aggressive fish, as they can become stressed easily.
 If you’re keeping a pair of gouramis, observe their interactions carefully. If there is too much aggression, it may be best to house them in separate tanks or adjust the number of females to males.
For any further questions or advice, feel free to contact us.
Email : cs@microaquaticshop.com.au
Phone : (02) 83203037
Address : Unit 15 2-8 Daniel St Wetherill Park 2164 open 9=5pm everyday
Neocaridina shrimpShrimp care
Neocaridina Shrimp Care Guide & Acclimation Instructions
Neocaridina shrimp (like Neocaridina davidi, commonly known as cherry shrimp) are popular freshwater invertebrates due to their hardiness, vibrant colors, and ease of care. Here's a straightforward care guide followed by proper acclimation steps:
  Neocaridina Shrimp Care Guide
Tank Requirements:
 Tank Size: Minimum 5 gallons (better in 10+ gallons for stability)
 Temperature: 68–78°F (20–25.5°C)
 pH: 6.5–8.0 (ideally \~7.0–7.5)
 GH (General Hardness): 4–8 dGH
 KH (Carbonate Hardness): 3–6 dKH
 TDS (Total Dissolved Solids): 150–250 ppm
 Filtration: Sponge filter or gentle hang-on-back (HOB); avoid strong current
 Substrate: Inert substrate or shrimp-safe planted tank substrate
 Lighting: Low to moderate (shrimp prefer hiding spots and moss coverage)
 Plants & Decor: Provide moss (e.g., Java Moss), cholla wood, leaf litter, and hiding spaces
Tank Mates:
 Peaceful nano fish like ember tetras, otocinclus, or snails
 Avoid aggressive or predatory fish (bettas, cichlids, barbs)
Diet:
 Omnivorous; feed:
   Shrimp-specific pellets
   Blanched veggies (zucchini, spinach)
   Algae wafers
   Biofilm (natural source)
   Occasional protein (bloodworms, in tiny amounts)
Water Changes:
 Weekly 10–20% with dechlorinated water
 Stability > perfection (avoid rapid parameter shifts)
 How to Acclimate Neocaridina Shrimp
Shrimp are sensitive to water parameter changes, so careful acclimation is key.
1. Float the Bag (Optional but Recommended):
 Float the sealed bag in the tank for 15–30 minutes to match temperature
2. Drip Acclimation Method (Best Practice):
 Gently pour the shrimp and store water into a clean container
 Use airline tubing to create a siphon from tank to container
 Tie a knot or use a valve to regulate a slow drip (about 2–4 drops/sec)
 Acclimate over 1–2 hours, aiming to double the original water volume
3. Net & Transfer:
 Gently net the shrimp (do not pour store water into your tank)
 Place them into the tank
4. Lights Off for a Few Hours:
 Helps reduce stress during transition
For any further questions or advice, feel free to contact us.
Email : cs@microaquaticshop.com.au
Phone : (02) 83203037
Address : Unit 15 2-8 Daniel St Wetherill Park 2164 open 9=5pm everyday
TetrasFish care
Tetra Fish Care Guide
Scientific Name: Characidae
Common Names: Neon Tetra, Glowlight Tetra, Cardinal Tetra, and more
 Tank Setup:
 Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons (larger schools need more space)
 Water Temperature: 70°F - 80°F (21°C - 27°C)
 pH: 6.0 - 7.5 (slightly acidic to neutral)
 Water Hardness: Soft to medium (3-12 dGH)
 Filtration: Good filtration but avoid strong currents, as tetras are small and prefer calm waters
 Substrate: Fine gravel or sand (tetras don’t burrow)
 Lighting: Moderate, but not too bright, as tetras tend to thrive in slightly dimmer settings (mimicking their natural environment)
 Feeding:
 Diet: Omnivorous. Feed a variety of foods including high-quality flake foods, frozen or live foods (brine shrimp, daphnia), and occasional plant matter (blanched spinach or peas).
 Feeding Frequency: 2-3 times a day in small amounts that they can eat in 2-3 minutes.
 Feeding Tips: Offer a balanced diet to keep colors vibrant and overall health optimal. Avoid overfeeding to maintain water quality.
 Tank Maintenance:
 Water Changes: 20-25% of water weekly. Tetras are sensitive to poor water quality, so consistent maintenance is important.
 Water Parameters: Regularly check ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates to ensure water is clean and safe.
 Behavior & Social:
 Temperament: Peaceful and social. Tetras do best in schools of 6 or more to feel secure and display natural schooling behavior.
 Tankmates: Ideal with other peaceful fish like guppies, corydoras, or other small, non-aggressive species.
 Activity: Active and enjoy swimming in the middle and upper levels of the tank. They are more visible when kept in groups.
 Breeding:
 Breeding Setup: Tetras typically spawn in a separate breeding tank. Provide soft, slightly acidic water for breeding.
 Eggs: Tetras lay eggs that are scattered on plants or decorations. The parents should be removed after spawning to prevent them from eating the eggs.
 Common Issues:
 Fin Rot: Often caused by poor water quality, this can be treated with appropriate medication.
 Stress: Tetras are sensitive to water changes and aggressive tankmates, so ensure a peaceful environment with stable water parameters.
 Color Fading: Can occur with stress, poor diet, or poor water conditions. A varied diet and good tank conditions will help keep their colors vibrant.
Important Notes:
 Group Size: Tetras are schooling fish and should always be kept in groups of at least 6 or more.
 Water Conditions: Keep water clean and stable to avoid stressing your tetras.
 Compatibility: Avoid larger or aggressive fish that may intimidate or eat your tetras.
With proper care, tetra fish will thrive and add beautiful color and life to your aquarium!
For any further questions or advice, feel free to contact us.
Email : cs@microaquaticshop.com.au
Phone : (02) 83203037
Address : Unit 15 2-8 Daniel St Wetherill Park 2164 open 9=5pm everyday